Friday, September 21, 2012

Day #23 Neuweid to Koblenz...

Military formation of German fishermen!
 A most satisfying day! A sumptuous breakfast for 11E at the Food Hotel--training hotel and congress facility for German supermarket managers. Last night even the head chef came over to ask our opinion of the cuisine and (no extra cost, assured us that Britain and Germany would always be friends--relieved to hear this)., 
          The route today followed the river southwards with only one crossing clinging to the railway bridge. Yes, it was German designed to be slightly flexible, as  we felt as the 100 ton locomotive thundered by, only 6 foot away, and we both held on tightly until it had cleared. By unofficial count, this is the 10th. time that I have crossed back and forth over the mighty Rhine so far.
            At this point  we are not really navigating by Google Maps, but more basically using the old fashioned magnetic compass plus gut instinct. Easy, but does lead to situations where the riverside footpath ends up in a railway marshaling yard or in the middle of a steel factory and the intrepid hikers are asking surprised locals "Which way is Switzerland"!!
              Some cities gradually creep up on you over the horizon. Others, like Manhatten, NY whack you head on. Koblenz is one of the latter. Rounding a bend in the river one is confronted by the 'Deutschland Eck'. The nose of Germany. The Eck is the point at which the Rhine & Mosel meet and constitutes a park, promenade and a a massive Teutonic style statue of the first Kaiser Wilhelm, father of united Germany, 1870. Destroyed in WW11, the statue was re-erected in 1955 and is a major pilgrimage site for Germans as the 'heart' of Germany.
             Our accommodation for tonight and tomorrow night is the youth hostel in the Festung (fortress) Ehrenbreistein, perched on top of  major east bank cliffs and having from the restaurant and patio a "million dollar" view of both the city and the river confluence. Superb food and with personalized name cards for us in the most attractive restaurant. How times and youth hosteling have changed since my hey day in the sixties, when it was a case of bringing along a few spuds and a can of stew to heat up in the self cooking kitchen!
          The days rest tomorrow serves several purposes, not least to a chance to catch-up on some much needed sock and shirt washing , but a chance to allow these elderly legs to rest a little, before the next 9 day road march to the next resting spot in Heidelberg.


20.2 kms. walked today per Google maps
Cumulative kms. walked: .
Type of overnight lodging: Youth hostel in a fortress!
Cost of lodging: 30E.

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