Breakfasted in the usual superior German youth hostel 4 course
style—cereals, meats, fruit, toast, yoghurt etc. Great to pack the protein
& vitamins before a long walking day. A grey, rainy, yet mild world
welcomed us back to the Rhine River-side pedestrian trail and we were quickly
headed in the correct direction towards our target of the mid sized town of
Bingen approx. 31 kms. to the south.
 |
| Bacharach-- arch typical small Rhine town |
Walking
the Rhine is not a quiet & peaceful experience. There is a constant roar of
passing freight and passenger trains, 24 hours a day. Theses lines pass within
just a few metres of the hotels and homes of the towns that hug the banks of
the mighty river. Another, source of pulsing loud noise for the walker, is the
deep-throated roar of the large diesels that power the hundreds of barges,
or tourist floating hotels. Such is the
density of these boats on the narrow sections, where the tight bends can be up
to 90 degrees, with sheer cliffs on both sides, that a traffic light system is
operated—ships radar does not function through solid rock. The difficulties for
the sailors is compounded by the record low water levels and the numerous sand
banks and rock piles that extend out almost to the centre of the river in places.
The
theme of the day was to press on in the steady rainfall and gradually watch the
kilometres drop. Every kilometre along the river-bank, on both shores, is maked
with a number---ie: 531, on massive boards for the passing boats to be able to
pin-point very precisely their location. A most useful aid also for the river
walker.
Arrived
in Bingen to find most hotels filled, eventually securing the ‘last’
room”---opposite the railway track, but fortunately with the most effective
sound insulation, promising a peaceful night.
Note on
Germans. We pass many other cyclists & hikers on the trail and it has to be
commented on that most are not very outwardly friendly. Sullen might be the
word and only a few seem to respond with a smile to the jaunty ‘guten tag’ that
we offer. A phrase that we have had repeated to us several times now is “this
is German law” to explain something that is demanded. Last night, my brother in
law Keith, ordered a beer with his meal, which was instantaneously entered up
on the hand-held device carried by the waitress. A second later, Keith revised
his order to a glass of wine. NOT POSSIBLE was the retort of the serving lady,
and Keith was left to enjoy his unwanted beer. Needless to say, that cost her,
her tip!
Another big 30 km. day tomorrow that should see us in Mainz and the
total walk kilometres from Amsterdam, north of 500. 28.6 kms. walked today per Google Maps.
478.6 cumulative kms. walked
Type of overnight lodging: Krone Hotel
Cost of lodging: 36E.
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