Day # 41 Buhl to Erdelsheim.

A soggy day on
Achem's main street.

          Heavy rain all day and perhaps the toughest day on the trip so far. Not so pleasant, but great for the post walk souvenirs. Without a worry in the world and fully kitted out for the monsoons (Where did they come from? Was I looking at the forecast for the wrong city last night?) I made my way to Rastatt railway station and exactly on time, German style, boarded my train for the 23 km. ride to Buhl.

               Clearly signposted and ready to roll, even in the downpour, I made good time to Achem 12 kms down the road from Buhl, where I took my right turn west towards the Rhine and the town, or rather, as it was explained to me, the district of Rheinau. Rheinau, itself does not exist according to the locals (yes it does on the map), but is a series of independently named villages along the main road. It had been my expectation that a gasthaus with a vacancy might exist in one of these villages. However, perhaps it was the foul weather, or more likely my very bedraggled look as I ask pleadingly for a room, but everywhere was: 1. closed on Tuesdays, 2. fully booked, 3. just did not answer my buzzes on the door bell. Helpful souls on the street always knew about the perfect place for me “just 5 kms further on down the road”. Easy if you are in a car---not so pleasant, if you have sore feet, hungry and saturated from head to toe. Any way, at about 6.00 pm I hit pay dirt in the very last village, Erdelsheim, of the Rheinau (which does not exist!!) chain. Was just about to jump the bus to the next big city (Kehl). No fun to sleep rough in the pouring rain.

            Grabbed a burger at the only joint open in the village, and headed up to my room for a shower and a very early night.

           Note: German Rhine region farm fields. I have noted very few animals in the fields, compared to my observations during my 2010, England/Wales coastal walk. During that walk, the sheep and cattle offered me some of the most meaningful conversations I have had for many a year. In contrast, German live-stock must be hidden away somewhere, or else in the fields in some other region of the country. I am surprised to see therefore thousands of acres of corn  in local fields that are planted with and are currently being harvested, to be used as fodder.

27.5 kms. walked today per Google maps.
778.0 Cumulative kms. walked.
Type of overnight lodging: Guest house.
 Cost of lodging: 50E.